Why Vintage ?

Today there is a strong trend towards producing more accurate vintage replicas, especially Rolex Submariners and Sea-Dwellers. Why? Because vintage watches are known to have a high intrinsic demand and value, and people are more willing to accept "flaws" in vintage pieces than new models.

Rare Rolex watches such as the famed "Double Red" Sea-Dweller and the "Red" Submariner are known to fetch $10,000 to $20,000 depending on their condition. That's a huge mark up for a watch that only cost a few hundred dollars new. Naturally demand exceeds the supply of these watches, which is where replica makers spot an opportunity to make a profit.

At first copies of vintage watches were fairly easy to spot. They were made with modern-style cases with laser printed dials that emulated the look of the older pieces. These were obviously new watches simply "made" to look like the older pieces. Back in the 70s, for example, Rolex did not use sapphire crystals or laser engraves their Sea-Dweller case backs!

Recently the trend in the higher end of the replica spectrum is to use special purpose-made pieces in vintage replicas. This means replicating the thicker cases that differ from the modern designs. It also means using different crowns and crystals that better emulate the older style parts. Some of these replicas are within tight enough tolerances that you can actually use OEM parts as replacements, making them even harder to spot.

Still, flaws abound on even these high end fakes. Incorrect bezel pearls, poor date magnification, and badly shaped crown guards are common on vintage Rolex watches. Also, Rolex tended to use thick acrylic crystals that are hard to duplicate. Still some replicas get around this by actually using OEM or aftermarket acrylic crystals themselves.

Buying any watch online requires caution. Buying a vintage watch usually requires even more caution and knowledge about the history of the piece you're buying. I recommend buying these watches only from widely known dealers with a good track record. Buying a $20,000 vintage Rolex sight unseen from an unknown individual requires a lot more effort (and risk) than I think is acceptable.

The quality of fake watches improves daily, while the means of detection of these watches lags behind. Be aware of and assess the risks before you buy.